
The revival of Edouard Koehn
Eduoard Koehn Trademark was acquired by watch industry veteran, Bernard Fleury and the Fleury family, in 2015, relaunching Eduoard Koehn as a marque in 2020.
Bernard Fleury, CEO of Eduoard Koehn was the former CEO of Vulcain. Mr.Fleury revived Vulcain with a focus on watchmaking expertise. In regard to his successes with Vulcain, Mr.Fleury credited his industry connections and access to mechanical movement production. With the connections and access to high end watchmaking solutions, Mr.Fleury was able to put a long range plan into motion for the revitalization of Vulcain.
Bernard Fleury focused on marketing Vulcain as he revived Vulcain’s connection to former US presidents Harry Truman, Dwight D Eisenhower, Lyndon B Johnson and Richard Nixon — who were all presented with a Vulcain to commemorate their leaving office. Mr.Fleury gifted a Vulcain watch to Barack Obama when he was in office. Mr.Fleury credits his interest in history and nostalgia for his successful marketing campaigns with Vulcain.
Flash forward to present and Bernard Fleury found himself inspired by Edouard Koehn’s distinct personality as a master watchmaker. Edouard Koehn was a clockmaker , who became a shareholder and partner at Patek Philippe in 1876 before his departure in 1891. That same year, in 1891, Edouard Koehn and his son acquired the renowned establishment of Danish watchmaker H R Ekegren in Geneva. Now, Bernard Fleury has relaunched Edouard Koehn, developing the future of the marque with his son Axel (Fleury) and his daughter Allissia. A fitting juxtaposition across so many years.
Edouard Koehn, the watchmaker, had a talent for crafting complications. He began his watchmaking career with complicated movements rather than time-only watches. Fearless in business, Edouard Koehn diversified the exisitng business of his acquisition, H.R. Ekegren. Eduoard Koehn produced chronometers and he ventured into the design and manufacture of extra-thin watches and master complications. Upon Koehn’s passing, his son took control and continued to deliver high grade watches until the 1930s.
Bernard Fleury wanted to develop a multi pronged, considerate line of watches bearing the Edouard Koehn marque. The priority of creativity and design centred around the need to reflect Koehn’s achievements and the timepieces which showcased his craftsmanship. The Edouard Koehn Tempus and World Heritage collections are very different from one another. Tempus models are very contemporary in looks and World Heritage are more classical.
The modern case designs of the Tempus collections are favorites of Axel and Allissia Fleury, who are from Generation Z and the modern, technical aesthetics really hit home for them. . The chronograph function rather than the case design is the connection to Koehn’s heritage with this complication,as his signature movement is the more complicated split-second chronograph housed as a pocket watch, historically. The Tempus collection, now with the Tempus III, represents a pinnacle of modern sport. Tempus III, rendered 41mm grade5 titanium and ceramic case, are lightweight and ultra sleek in form. A perfect modern sports model for enthusiasts of the genre. Tempus I (Chronograph) and Tempus II (monpusher chronograph) are both in slightly larger, robust,43mm stainless steel cases.
Edouard Koehn Tempus III- $8,950
The classical round case of the World Heritage series features the worldtimer and alarm complications, a rare combination which are always coveted by watch connoisseurs. The worldtimer is a symbolic link to Koehn’s business travels to different time zones, like North America. The alarm function is one of the earliest horological complications and it represents Edouard Koehn’s passion for striking mechanisms as he had developed and marketed a split-second chronograph minute repeater pocket watch. The World Heritage II, has been developed in collaboration with Concepto. Concepto is an independent manufacturer renowned for crafting high-end mechanical movements in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The calibre is derived from the A. Schild AS5008 base and offers a range of intriguing solutions. It features a double barrel which simultaneously winds the watch and the alarm functions – a typical configuration. However, what sets it apart is the central automatic rotor’s ability to wind both barrels, each in its respective direction. The EK-MVTWTA01 calibre boasts a 48-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour. The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II comprises five references, each distinguished by the colour of guilloche dial. The watch features a 42mm diameter titanium case with a classic and elegant design. The watch measures 14.5mm in height. It features sapphire crystal front and back and has a water resistance guarantee of up to 50 meters. The use of titanium contributes to optimal acoustics for the alarm function, highlighting the consideration given to both form and function.
Edouard Koehn Word Heritage II (automatic World Time, Alarm) – $8,950
Autumn 2024
The “Legacy” collection begins with a Rattrapante which has a clear, vintage-inspired style. The polished steel case has arched lugs with chamfered edges and rectangular pushers, along with an “onion” crown with a co-axial button for the split-seconds. The diameter is a relatively compact 40 mm, but the case is thick at 14.6 mm including the crystal. The height of the case is expected, given the profile of the calibre with a split-seconds mechanism added on top. The Legacy Rattrapante is modelled after an early-20th century pocket chronograph made by Ed. Koehn. The dial is both classical and functional. The dial is grand feu (heat fired enamel), a traditional detail, produced by Donze Cadran. Legacy is unusual for having two vertically-arranged registers, but the Breguet numerals and red accents are typical of vintage pocket watch chronographs. The elapsed seconds hand is red, while the split-seconds hand is blue.
Edouard Koehn Legacy Rattrapante – $17,000